The following restaurant review appeared in the March (2007) issue of "Get Rhode Island" magazine. www.get-ri.com

Thai cuisine is well known for bringing diverse flavors and ingredients together in a single dish. True to form, the Spice Thai Bistro on Waterman Avenue shares its space, piggy-backed behind a fully-equipped espresso bar. It works. The Bistro is the type of place where you could get a coffee while working on your laptop, order take-out, or stay for lunch if that’s what you desire. With its clean lines and elegantly minimalist décor, dinner was what I and a friend had in mind one night, and found the experience wholly satisfying.

When we asked for tea we were given an impressive tea menu with an extensive variety, which was a little surprising for a place in which coffee drinks feature so prominently. Besides many of the usual teas such as chamomile and Earl Grey, there were many exotic selections such as "Jasmine Pearls," an organic green tea with rolled-up jasmine petals that open when steeped. In the end, though, we opted for the Thai iced tea, a not-too-sweet, subtly spicy concoction with milk floated on top.

The combo platter appetizer ($10.75) was a good place to start. It arrived on a long dish, an artfully arranged selection of Siam rolls, vegetable tempura, and beef and chicken satay. The tempura was cooked just right, very crispy on the outside, and the vegetables were neither too crunchy nor too soft. The satay was excellent as well, bearing just a hint of aromatic, floral kaffir lime.

On to the "famous" (according to our waitress) pad thai ($7.95). As authentic Thai cooking is an exercise in contrasts, this dish didn't disappoint. I found it sweet, salty, tangy, and nutty all at the same time, and the silky noodles paired nicely with the garnish of crispy, earthy bean sprouts. Peter had the coconut fried rice ($8.50), a huge serving of fragrant jasmine rice with shrimp, chicken, and an unusual combination of egg, tomato, and peas. Furthermore the Two Lovers ($11.95) was a more traditional stir-fry of shrimp, chicken, and vegetables, served with plain jasmine rice. The sauce was light and redolent of soy, and had a pleasing caramelized flavor.

Though we had little room for dessert, we weren’t finished until we tried the deep-fried ice cream ($4.50): a generous scoop of vanilla dipped in batter and deep-fried, served with enough fruit to convince you that it can't be all that bad for you. Bathed in a delicious raspberry coulis and crowned with generous dollop of whipped cream, it was the ideal conclusion to the previous symphony of flavors.

Great food, large portions, good prices, relaxing atmosphere, take-out and delivery… there’s not much more you could ask for.

Spice Authentic Thai Bistro
110 Waterman Street
Providence
401-331-5282

www.spicebistro.com